At a glance
- There is no single best steel: every steel trades hardness, toughness and rust resistance against each other.
- Heat treatment matters as much as the steel. A well-treated simple steel beats a badly treated expensive one.
- Carbon steels are easier to forge and sharpen, but rust if neglected.
- Stainless steels resist rust but are harder to forge and need accurate temperature control.
What makes a good knife steel?
Four properties matter, and you can't have the most of all of them at once:
- Hardness: how well the edge resists rolling and denting, measured in HRC. Most knives are hardened to between 56 and 62 HRC.
- Toughness: how well the steel resists chipping and breaking. Harder usually means less tough.
- Edge retention: how long the edge stays sharp. Steels with more and harder carbides, often from chromium, vanadium or tungsten, keep an edge longer.
- Rust resistance: mainly down to chromium. Formally, stainless steel has at least 10.5% chromium; knife makers reckon on about 12% left free in the steel for real rust resistance.
A bushcraft knife that splits wood needs toughness. A kitchen knife that slices on a board needs a fine, hard edge and some rust resistance. That's why makers choose different steels for each.
Carbon steel or stainless steel?
Carbon steels (1084, 1095, 80CrV2, O1, 52100) are mostly iron and carbon with small amounts of other elements. They forge easily, take a very sharp edge and are easy to sharpen. They will rust if left wet, and build up a grey patina with use.
Stainless steels (AEB-L, 14C28N, 440C) contain 12–18% chromium. They need little care, but most are hard to forge by hand, and they must be hardened at precise temperatures, usually in an electric kiln. Many makers shape them by stock removal instead.
Most knife making courses use carbon steel, because it suits a coal or gas forge and a quench in oil.
Which steel for which knife?
| Knife | Good steels | Why |
|---|---|---|
| First forged knife | 1084, 80CrV2 | Forgiving to harden with basic equipment |
| Bushcraft and camp knives | 80CrV2, 1084, O1 | Tough enough for batoning and carving |
| Kitchen knives | AEB-L, 14C28N, 52100, O1 | Fine, hard edge; stainless options for easy care |
| Damascus | 1084 or 1095 with 15N20 | The pair harden alike and contrast when etched |
| Display or historical pieces | 1084, 1095, pattern-welded steel | Forge well and take a traditional finish |
Can you make a knife from an old file or spring?
Yes, and many smiths start that way. Old files are often high-carbon steel, leaf springs are usually a spring steel similar to 5160, and ball bearings are often 52100. The catch is that you can't be sure of the steel, so you can't be sure of the right heat treatment. Some files are only hardened on the surface. Recycled steel is fine for practice; buy known steel for a knife you rely on.
How do the steels compare?
The table below gives the published composition and a typical hardness for each steel. Use the steel comparison tool to compare up to four side by side.
| Steel | Type | Composition (%) | Typical HRC | Toughness | Edge retention | Rust resistance | Ease of sharpening | Beginner-friendly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1084 | Carbon | C 0.80–0.93, Mn 0.60–0.90 | 58–61 | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| 1095 | Carbon | C 0.90–1.03, Mn 0.30–0.50 | 58–62 | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| 80CrV2 | Carbon (low alloy) | C 0.75–0.85, Cr 0.40–0.60, V 0.15–0.25 | 58–61 | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| O1 | Tool steel | C 0.85–1.00, Mn 1.00–1.40, Cr 0.40–0.60, W 0.40–0.60 | 58–62 | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| 52100 | Carbon (low alloy) | C 0.98–1.10, Cr 1.30–1.60 | 60–63 | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| 15N20 | Carbon (nickel) | C 0.75, Ni 2.0, Mn 0.4 | 58–60 | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| 440C | Stainless | C 0.95–1.20, Cr 16–18, Mo 0.75 | 57–59 | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| AEB-L | Stainless | C 0.67, Cr 12.8 | 59–62 | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| 14C28N | Stainless | C 0.62, Cr 14, N 0.11 | 58–61 | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Questions people ask
What is the best steel for a beginner knife maker?
1084. It is a simple high-carbon steel that hardens fully in a fast quench oil from a temperature you can reach in a coal or gas forge, and it is forgiving of small mistakes. 80CrV2 is a close second and is tougher.
Is stainless steel good for knives?
Yes. Modern stainless steels such as AEB-L and 14C28N make excellent knives, especially kitchen knives. They are harder to forge and need accurate heat treatment, so beginners usually start with carbon steel.
What does HRC mean on a knife?
HRC is hardness on the Rockwell C scale. A higher number means a harder edge that resists rolling, but usually a less tough blade. Most knives sit between 56 and 62 HRC; Japanese kitchen knives are often 60 or more.
What steel do Japanese knives use?
Traditional Japanese knives often use simple high-carbon steels known as white steel (shirogami) and blue steel (aogami). Many modern Japanese knives use stainless steels such as VG-10 or powder steels, sometimes clad in softer steel.
Can I make a knife from an old file?
You can, and it is a common first project. But you can't be sure what steel it is, so the heat treatment is guesswork. It is fine for practice; use a known steel for a knife you will rely on.
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Related pages
Sources
- SAE J403: Chemical compositions of SAE carbon steels
- ASTM A681: Standard specification for tool steels, alloy (O1)
- Alleima 14C28N strip steel datasheet
- ASM Alloy Digest: UHB Stainless AEB-L
- 15N20 / 75Ni8 / 1.5634 material data
- Knife Steel Nerds (Larrin Thomas): toughness and edge retention testing